For those who have been anxiously awaiting news from Ghana, I apologize for this inordinately long pause before beginning.
This whole trek began back in December, well really last June when I started working for the Ford Institute for Human Security.
I was assigned the country of Liberia to research in reference to child soldiers. I quickly became obsessed with my work, putting in several volunteer hours over the summer. I researched ethnicity, the timeline of the civil war (1999-2003), troop movements and battles, child soldier recruitment, the location of refugee and IDP camps, and attacks on those camps. I came to know a decent amount about the war and Liberia. I created maps and supplied information for our upcoming Child Soldiers Conference we hosted in September.
At the Child Soldiers Conference, I met Solomon Patray, a former Liberian child soldier. He founded the Veteran Child Soldiers Association of Liberia (VECSAOL) at the Buduburam refugee camp in Ghana. I think he was impressed with my knowledge of his country, and I was eager for his opinion on some of my projects. We stayed in touch after the conference and around Christmas, I asked him if there would be an opportunity to intern at the Buduburam refugee camp and work with his group, VECSAOL. He said yes, and I have been in constant communication since regarding this amazing opportunity.
Allison and I arrived in Ghana on the 4th of June. Artemy, our gracious host, and his friend Elijah picked us up from the airport and we were immediately heckled for money as Ghanaian men rushed up and helped Artemy "pack" his car with our excessive luggage. For this they demanded money, some for each of them. When Artemy refused, of course they turned to us. This was our first experience in Ghana.
Artemy's house is a 3 bedroom large apartment on the 4th floor of a 4 story small apartment building. The night we arrived, there was no electricity due to rationing. Apparently, there is an electricity crisis in Ghana. We used our flashlights our first night in the country!
The experience of living here at Artemy's is much more plush than I had originally expected - originally I had thought that we'd stay one night with Artemy and then move out to the camp, but as plans sometimes do, they fell apart. So here I am two weeks later, still commuting to the camp from Accra. On the plus side, I see a wide cross section of Accra and its inhabitants. I've become intimately aware of people staring at me and shouting "Obruni!" The other day, at least two people grabbed my arm and tried to get me to buy something from them. One woman scared me by her forcefulness - I think most people don't take kindly to being grabbed though. Oh! And they HISS here! Literally! It was so funny, the other day Allison and I were walking along Oxford Street with an acquaintance from the camp, Guy, who with his swanky Aussie accent explained to us that he does not respond to hissing. It apparently is a tactic used to grab the attention of passers by. Yeah, I have to admit, I don't really respond favorably to hissing either.
I have never seen so many vendors with wares to sell! They are literally everywhere! It is so crazy! Lining the sidewalks, filling every free space with stalls, carrying goods on their heads... in the middles of the street, they even hop on buses to give spiels about their wares. On Saturday a man was selling socks on our tro-tro. His selling point was that the socks were specially made for shoes.
Also, I have never seen so many openly Christian people in my life. There are churches everywhere, everything has a reference to God and spirituality. Even buses, taxis, and tro-tros have large letters on their back windows spelling things like "God First", "Jesus Name", "Prayer", and my personal favorite, "Enemies are Not God". Businesses usually manage to creep faith/God references into their title, like "Jesus Cares Hair Salon". I've been preached to 3 times at least on tro-tros in one week! Everyone asks me as one of their first questions if I am a Christian. We even sang a couple church songs on a tro-tro once.
The entire city of Accra is an interesting mix of development meeting abject poverty and ruins. You see tall neat looking modern buildings, but surrounding them are other buildings or houses that are falling apart or lots of rubble and trash... sometimes with goats. The poor parts are absolute squalor. Beaches function, as well as pretty much anywhere (I've observed), as public toilets. We visited the old city center, the colonial Accra, called Jamestown, and it was literally in various stages of decay. There was a large shanty town on the beach. I managed to get pictures, but was hassled for it. Apparently people do not appreciate photography here.
We went to the cultural district the other day and were instantly surrounded by several men who demanded that we come and see their wares (Ashanti masks, traditional sitting stools, drums, paintings, carved animals, etc.). Upon visiting their stall, we garnered the attention of even more vendors, who demanded that we see their stalls. It was ridiculous. Obviously we could not buy something from every stall - and when we told them we had no more money to spend, their answer became "It is alright, we will escort you to the bank".
Don't get me wrong - I love Ghana. Everyone I have met, including the vendors, have been extremely kind and welcoming. Each introduces themselves and asks how you are and how you enjoy Ghana. Everyone shakes hands and greets warmly. I feel very appreciated all the time. Kids especially always say hi and wave. Some want high-fives, but many just want to get a smile. The girls like to hold my hand for a couple of seconds. It is a sign of friendship here. I see people holding hands all the time, even guys with other guys and girls with girls.
It takes me about 1.5 hours to get to the camp from Accra. I ride the tro-tro from the stop on Ring Road by Artemy's place to Circle, and from Circle to Kanishie, from Kanishie to "Liberia Camp" or Buduburam. The tro-tros are like VW buses from the 60s outfitted to be a bus with bench seats. There are usually 5 rows of 4 seats, not counting the driver and front seat, which holds 2. So there are roughly 23 people in a tro-tro at any given time. The drivers and their "mate"s don't usually like to get going until all the seats are filled, so if you get on an empty tro-tro, you may be waiting for a while. The ride isn't bad when the tro-tro is moving and there is airflow from the windows, but in stop & go traffic or in a standstill... well, you can imagine.
So the camp... a really amazing place. I think they said that it has been operating since - well, for about 19 years. The UNHCR is pulling out now and handing control/management over to the Ghanaians. Because of this, there is high encouragement for Liberians to agree to be voluntarily repatriated.
A million of my questions regarding camp security have been answered simply by seeing it with my own eyes. There is a camp police station, as well as neighborhood watch. Each division of the camp has a neighborhood watch contingent. The only questions which remain unanswered are how safe the inhabitants felt during the conflict and how long the current system has been in place. I can't understand how it would have been possible to ever recruit from Buduburam.
The Former Child Soldier Association meets in their own office and classroom. The director, Dr. William, is not a former child soldier, but is war-affected and studied in Germany. There are many others, executive officers of the group that I have met who have been extremely willing to help out with the project. I will not list their names until I have explicit permission for their safety.
I have already heard several stories from several different people that corroborate some of my theories - social rejection, retributive killings, the education/reintegration factor, amongst others. I have heard "the graveyard story" from several independently and think it adequately illustrates the plight of child soldiers and reintegration. I hope to add the graveyard story to the anthology - I need to do some research first to see if I can back it up from other sources.
We begin training enumerators for the survey on Tuesday. I hope that the workshop with adequately prepare them to conduct the survey. I will train them with the help of their advisers, Mr. Sumo Kupe, and Mr. Francis Snoh. Mr. Kupe is their counsellor, and Mr. Snoh has received training in Journalism, Research, and Interviewing. As soon as we have a couple of qualified enumerators, we can begin gathering data. Meanwhile, I will record stories and work on getting enough data from the UNHCR to ascertain what the patterns of settlement of the camp are in order to create a relatively unbiased survey population. They we can begin the household surveys and war-affected children surveys. I'm so filled to the brim with excited anticipation. Everyone is. People have come up to be and thanked me for doing this work, for caring about their situation and their stories.
These guys are my age and younger. They were deprived of their childhoods, forced to experience traumatizing events, and rejected by society. Because of their experience as child soldiers, they have been denied opportunity, and still suffer the consequences of a future they did not choose for themselves. They can not return to Liberia - those who have have been killed, their bodies mutilated and displayed. Yet, I don't think that other ex-fighters have had nearly the same problems reintegrating. They had jobs, professions, education before their joining or recruitment. These kids had those opportunities snatched from them, and did not make a conscious, educated choice to join combat. Yet, they are treated as if they did. The consequences of their actions lie squarely on their shoulders - but can we really hold them accountable?
Ishmael Beah writes in his book, "A Long Way Gone: Memoirs of a Boy Soldier", that child soldiers can be rehabilitated and "become human again". He is living proof. However, as long as this group remains alienated, without opportunity and rejected from society, society will never be whole. This problem must be solved before the vicious cycle of violence starts again.